How to prune apple trees in winter

Winter pruning doesn't have to be daunting. With a clear plan and the right tools, you can bring your apple trees back into shape and set them up for a healthy, productive season ahead. 

Whether your tree has become overcrowded, overgrown or unproductive, a little winter attention can make all the difference. 

Why prune apple trees? 

With proper care and correct pruning, apple trees can remain healthy and productive for 50 years or more. If neglected, they lose vigour and gradually stop producing fruit. Regular pruning helps stimulate healthy growth, controls pests and diseases, and keeps trees at a manageable height and size.

When to prune apple trees? 

In the UK, apple trees should be pruned annually during the dormant season between November to early March.

Top pruning tips

• Aim for an open goblet shaped crown – begin the job with an end in mind. The main branches should be well spaced to allow light and good air flow for better quality fruit and fewer pests and diseases. 
• Don’t leave little stubs. When you're making cuts, ensure they’re clean and cut back to the branch collar (wrinkly ring of bark encircling each stem). The exception is heading back cuts (see below).
• Keep in mind that horizontal branches bear more fruit than vertical branches.
• If your tree has been really neglected, don't do all the work in one season. This can do more harm than good and cause rampant regrowth. Spread the work over two or three winters. 
• Remove large branches by cutting them off in sections to avoid injury.
• Dwarf trees don’t need too much pruning – just a light touch.

Step by step how to prune apple trees in winter

1. Clean up

Start by pruning away branches that are diseased, damaged or dead.

Remove any sprouts coming from the base of the trunk. These are known as suckers and originate from the rootstock rather than the fruiting tree grafted onto it.

Prune away any straight stems sprouting from main branches. These are water shoots and are often a sign of overly vigorous pruning in a previous season.

2. Thin out

Aim to create an open goblet-shaped canopy that allows light in and air to circulate. This improves fruit production and helps reduce pests and diseases. 

To create this shape, prune out upward growing interior branches, especially those that rub against each other or criss-cross other branches. 

You can also remove leading branches that compete with each other or places where two or more branches grow from the same point and seem to compete with each other. Keep the healthiest branch that’s in the best position and has fruit buds. All thinning cuts should be made to the branch collar.

Tips

• Use a pruning saw for thick branches. 
• As you work, pause frequently, stand back and check the overall shape of the tree. Make sure you’re working towards evenly spaced branches and the open goblet shape.

3. Make heading back cuts (mainly for young trees)

Heading back cuts are used primarily on young trees to shorten and strengthen branches. They help prevent branches from becoming long, weak and prone to snapping. 

It generally involves cutting away 20-30% of last year’s growth. You can identify last year's growth by the wrinkled ring of bark on a stem (branch collar), which may be anywhere from a few centimetres to over a metre from the tip, depending on the vigour of the tree. 

Unlike the previous steps, these cuts will be made part way on each branch. Always cut just above an outward-facing bud. This encourages new growth in the desired direction. 

Tip

• As a tree matures, heading cuts should be avoided as they can cause overcrowding. If shortening a long, thin branch on a mature tree, make the cut into older wood to reduce excessive new growth. 

Is there a difference in how to prune a young, mature or old tree?

Yes, there is. Pruning methods vary depending on the age of the tree.

Young trees (one or two years old) should be trained to form a free-standing bush tree with an open, goblet-shaped crown. This involves removing a significant amount of early growth, but it benefits the tree in the long term by building a strong structure and preventing weak branches and poor fruiting. 

Mature trees require pruning to maintain their shape and productivity. The main objective is to reduce overcrowding and control height by removing larger branches.

Old trees can still be pruned to encourage fruiting, provided the trunk is healthy and the branches continue to produce new growth and fruiting buds. Start by removing dead or damaged branches, then thin the crown to reduce overcrowding. Aim to maintain a goblet-shaped structure with an open centre. If needed, spread the work over several years to avoid overpruning.