Protection of newly planted trees must be considered before planting commences. If left until after the trees are in position, the damage may occur before action can be taken. 

What type of protection do I need? 

Protection against rabbits and voles

Young trees are very palatable to a variety of animals, as well vulnerable to the elements! Strong winds can damage saplings if the location is very exposed. If rabbits are present in any number, they will almost certainly gnaw the bark of young saplings and may kill them entirely. In small areas (less than about 3 hectares), individual plastic guards or tree spirals are offer effective protection. 

If you have contractors managing your site, tree tubes offer better protection against strimmers. Ensure that the area around the base of the sapling is weed-free. You can use mulch mats or bark chippings. This means that you do not have to manage right up to the tree base.  

Trees should have a sufficient length of clean stem to take at least a 0.6m (2ft) guard. When fitting guards around the tree be careful with low branches - they may need pruning with secateurs. 

Guards should be checked regularly to make sure they have not been displaced. As your trees grow the guard may become restrictive and impair growth, so remember to inspect at least annually before removing it once the tree has established.   

Protection against deer and livestock

Trees can be protected by fencing, or with substantial individual guards if deer or livestock are present. For large areas (generally anything from 3 hectares), it is sometimes cheaper to use fencing, rather than individual tree protection.  Remember that red, roe and fallow deer can all jump substantial fences so make yours at least 2m high.


In some circumstances planning permission may be required - check with your local authority if in doubt.

If horses are in the neighbouring fields, wire fencing can be used if it is strained tight. Make sure that the trees are planted at least 2m away from the fence line. 

If you are planting over a hectare, contact our woodland creation team if you are unsure how best to protect your trees.

There are two main reasons for “weeding”. One is to reduce the incidence of weeds likely to affect you or your neighbour such as ragwort, creeping thistle, docks or another acknowledged agricultural weed. The other is to promote the growth of the tree by reducing competition.


Research shows that to maintain a weed / grass free ring of 1m diameter around young trees for the first three years of their growth will help enhance tree growth rate and improve chances of survival. A weed / grass-free ring can be created in a number of ways including fitting a mulch mat at planting, chemical application, mulching with materials such as straw after planting and / or physical weeding.

Chemical or mulching?

The difference is in the environmental impact. If a contractor is employed, chemical weeding will reduce costs and take less time. Applications will be needed once or twice a year and should only be done by trained individuals. Please ensure only chemicals that cause mimimum long-term environmental damage are used if this is your approach.

Mulching can be carried out by people with a mimum of training. The weed-free ring can be created by using a thick layer of bark chips, squares of old carpet, mulch mats or straw bales. Placing mulch mats can be an enjoyable activity for volunteers, put please makes sure they are heavy enough not to blow away! Bark chipping may need topping up annually.

Noxious weeds such as ragwort, thistles, dock and giant hogweed are noticeable weeds that you have a duty to control adjacent to agricultural land. Other options for weed control including a higher planting density to achieve a faster canopy closure.