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Each month we turn our focus upon a different county, highlighting
some key ancient tree sites and identifying some other places of
general interest for tree-lovers. Other than Woodland Trust
properties, admission or parking charges apply for many sites, and
as access may be prohibited or limited to certain dates or times,
it’s always advisable to check with the site owner or with the local
Tourist Information Office before making a visit.
This month we turn our attention to Berkshire, located in the
south of England to the west of London and comprising areas known as
the Berkshire Downs, the Kennet Valley and the Thames Valley. This
county is often associated with royalty – and with good reason. Its
origins date back to the 7th century when the King of Wessex gave
lands to one of his relatives, roughly equivalent to the northern
and western quarters of the county that we know today. The name
Berkshire appeared in the Anglo Saxon Chronicle within two centuries
of this royal gift being made.
Since then, its connections with monarchy has continued through the
centuries, and not surprisingly, in 1958 Berkshire was given the
title of Royal County. Today, the county’s most prestigious
building, Windsor Castle, is still residence to Her Majesty the
Queen and the Royal Family. This property has been a royal palace
and fortress for over 900 years, during which it has been
continuously occupied and has undergone numerous enhancements. It
has seen many changes and survived many trials and tribulations
during those years, most recently a devastating fire.
To explore Berkshire, there’s no better way than to trace the route
of the River Thames, taking in the flow of its towns, villages and
countryside. Indeed, for those seeking leisurely exploration, boat
trips run along the river from Windsor to Runnymede, famous for
being the place where the Magna Carta was signed.
The Kennet and Avon Canal provides similar opportunities, as this
old waterway has been restored and offers a sedate, relaxing journey
from Newbury into the neighbouring county of Wiltshire. The
canal-side is also ideal for a pleasant stroll, whilst for the more
adventurous, there’s The Ridgeway across the Downs. This national
path - tracking Britain’s oldest road - will provide not just
exercise but also a good impression of the Berkshire landscape and
wildlife. An additional bonus comes in the form of some great views,
including those of the area’s prehistoric barrows and hill-forts.
For those seeking cultural, architectural or historical attractions,
the following offers a good variety: the Royal Collection at Windsor
Castle; Highclere Castle, home to the Earl and Countess of Carnarvon;
Donnington Castle with its civil war connections; the Jacobean
buildings of the Town Museum and the 19th century Corn Exchange in
Newbury; the Museum of Rural Life and Blake’s Lock Museum at
Reading; the dinosaurs in the Eton College Natural History Museum in
Windsor; and the original paintings in Stanley Spencer Gallery in
Cookham.
As for towns, well here are a few of the main ones: Reading, a
noteworthy destination for shoppers; Windsor with the castle, its
unique blue pillar box and Legoland; Bracknell, home of the Met
Office; Maidenhead, with Boulter’s Lock, a popular River Thames
visitor attraction; Hungerford, renowned for its antique shops and
arcade; and Newbury, a historic market town with a fine showground
and famous racecourse.
So, where might you go to find some of Berkshire’s top locations for
ancient trees and treescapes?
Undoubtedly, Windsor Forest and Great Park (SU9672), part of
the Crown Estate, is the place to go. The Windsor estate covers some
15,600 acres, including 7,700 acres of forest and parkland. Windsor
Forest is a sizeable area of woodland and heathland, which was
previously royal hunting forest and which extends over the county
borders into Buckinghamshire and Surrey. Windsor Great Park - the
only royal park managed by the Crown Estate - was formerly part of a
huge Norman hunting chase and is now renowned for its ancient oak
trees. The park is a perfect combination of grassy lawns from the
old deer-park and some splendid woodland.
The legendary Herne’s Oak is to be found here. It’s said that a
young keeper called Herne on the king’s estate saved the king’s life
one day, by standing in the way of a charging stag. The keeper
recovered from his serious injuries, but because of the treachery of
some of the other keepers, he lost his woodland and hunting skills.
Out of his mind, the young keeper ran away, only to be found hanging
from an oak tree on the estate by a passing peddler some time later.
His body mysteriously disappeared, however, before it could be
recovered, and the tree was struck later that night by a ferocious
bolt of lightning. The ghost of the young keeper appeared firstly to
the other keepers, taking them deep into the forest where they
decimated the king’s herd of deer. He then appeared to the king,
revealing what the other keepers had done to him and how he’d met
his end. The king was distraught and avenged the young keeper,
ordering the other keepers to be hanged from the same tree.
Legend has it that the ghost of young keeper still appears
periodically, hunting in the woods. You may not spot the late Mr
Herne but with more than 3,500 veteran trees including oak, beech,
field maple and sweet chestnut, there’s still plenty to see here!
The National Trust has a number of interesting properties in
Berkshire. Basildon Park (SU6178), located between Pangbourne
and Streatley, is an 18th century Palladian mansion, noted for its
plasterwork, staircase and octagonal room. There’s extensive
parkland here, and a small number of ancient oaks remain. Keep an
eye open for them, as you wander along the trails in grounds, which
were first set out in the 19th century and which have been
undergoing recent renovation. Alternatively, from the top of
Streatley Hill, you may access The Holies, Lough Down and Lardon
Chase, an area of downs and woodland with some truly wonderful views
and lovely walks. Ashdown House (SU2882) is a 17th century
estate on the Berkshire Downs, with the building containing an
impressive staircase and some notable paintings. As well as stunning
views over the surrounding countryside, there are wonderful walks in
the nearby Ashdown Woods.
Runnymede (TQ0072) is famed for the Magna Carta signing but
this is now a picturesque area of riverside meadows, broad-leaved
woodland and grassland, managed by the National Trust. The flora and
fauna here is such that the site is partly designated a Site of
Special Scientific Interest (SSSI). Also, if you look across the
River Thames from here, you’ll see Ankerwycke on the opposite
bank, where the remains of a 12th century priory and the Ankerwycke
Yew, believed to be over 2000 years old, are to be found.
Maidenhead Thicket (SU8581) is an interesting example of old
common woodland pasture. Look here for some fine oak, beech and ash
trees.
The Woodland Trust manages one of the finest woodland sites in
Berkshire, Bisham Woods (SU8585), located on the Chilterns
ridge overlooking the River Thames. This 380-acre woodland site is
part SSSI, designated as ancient semi-natural woodland by the Nature
Conservancy Council and registered as a Local Nature Reserve by
English Nature. It was once part of the Bisham Estate, which was
owned by Bisham Abbey. If maps at the abbey are anything to go by,
then these woods are at least 500 years old, and an element of this
land formed part of the Royal Forest of Windsor, where the previous
Queen Elizabeth was known to go riding. Amongst the beech, ash, wych
elm, wild cherry and sycamore, you may spot one of the few remaining
ancient oaks and beech trees. Visit here in spring for a fine
display of bluebells, and keep a sharp eye out for the muntjac deer.
From the hilltop, there are some fabulous views and as with many
Thames-side areas of Berkshire, Kenneth Grahame found inspiration
here for his most famous work, The Wind in the Willows. Bisham Woods
are widely assumed to be the basis for his Wild Wood!
The Berks, Bucks and Oxon Wildlife Trust (BBOWT) also manages
several sites of particular interest in the county. Here’s two of
the best. Bowdown Woods Nature Reserve (SU5065),
incorporating Baynes Reserve, is a 136-acre stretch of ancient
riverside woodland near Newbury, adjacent to the infamous Greenham
Common. (The former US airbase is now a heathland National Nature
Reserve). Mature oak and ash trees are to be found in these woods,
amongst centuries-old coppice on the valley slopes. Ancient woodland
indicators are easily recognisable, with herb paris, common
solomon’s seal and moschatel, sometimes known as the town hall clock
flower, particularly prominent. Enjoy the bluebells in spring and
listen out for nightingales in the late spring and summer. Watch too
for the elusive white admiral butterfly during summer months, and in
the autumn see how many of the 300 species of fungi recorded here
you can find!
Moor Copse Nature Reserve (SU6373), incorporating Hogmoor
Copse, Park Wood and 5-Acre Field, is located near Tidmarsh. Wet
alder woodland is rare in southern England but Hogmoor Copse is a
fine example. Look here for water mint and water avens, as well as
ancient woodland plants such as wood spurge, golden-saxifrage and
yellow pimpernel. The picturesque River Pang is home to a variety of
damselflies, kingfishers and water shrews. See if you can spot the
elusive water rail too! Park Wood is predominantly oak and ash
woodland. Here you’ll find spindle bushes, primroses and brimstone
butterflies, whilst badgers, foxes and bats frequent the woodland
glades and rides at night. The grassland at 5-Acre Field is grazed
by New Forest ponies and is a popular spot for butterflies and moths
including the scarlet tiger moth and the ringlet. Moor Copse is
hazel coppice with oak and ash standards. Keep an eye open for early
purple orchids and for woodpeckers – greater spotted, the much rarer
lesser spotted and green - as you enjoy this terrific woodland site.
Now, here are a few privately owned ancient tree sites in the
county.
Aldemaston Court (SU5964) was built by the Burr family in the
19th century, incorporating aspects of the previous buildings which
stood on the same estate. The site is now owned by Blue Circle
Industries and includes offices, a hotel and conference facilities.
Aldemaston Manor stood here from the early 12th century to the 17th
century, when the new owner rebuilt it as Aldemaston House. This
building burnt down in the mid 19th century, leaving just its
dedication stone still visible. The cellars are also still in situ,
albeit below the current lawns! The current building is an
Elizabethan style courtyard house with a tower. The surrounding
deer-park was enclosed in the 13th century. Today you won’t find any
deer here, but more than two dozen ancient oaks and a beautiful lake
have survived all the changes.
A 17th century H-shaped house stands at Swallowfield Park,
built for the daughter of the famous inventor William Backhouse.
This building replaced a medieval castle and is now converted into
apartments. A few ancient trees remain in the former deer-park. Keep
a watch out for some fine specimens of oak, horse chestnut, plane,
hawthorn, holly and sycamore. There are lovely gardens in the
grounds too, which are open to the public on certain days in the
summer. The old walled garden is surrounded by a woodland garden.
Look for the groves of elms, limes and oaks, and a quite splendid
Yew Walk. Another noteworthy item on the estate is a pets’ cemetery;
not so unusual, you might think, but this one includes the grave of
a dog called Bumble, faithful companion to Charles Dickens.
Hamstead Marshall Park (SU4266) is private property, now
owned by a nursing home, but it is crossed by public footpaths.
Hamstead Marshall was an important estate for many years. The
remains of three mottes, which were home to the powerful Marshall
family, are located near the local church. None of the main medieval
or Tudor houses have survived. From the churchyard, however, several
of the original, ornate gateposts can be seen, whilst on the
parkland itself there’s a small number of surviving ancient beech
and oak trees.
Silwood Park in Ascot is owned by the Imperial College,
London and is used as a rural research centre. The 19th century
manor house is more or less adjacent to Ascot racecourse. The campus
is a popular venue for weddings and conventions, partly because of
its location and partly because of its lovely grounds. A small
number of ancient oaks and beech trees survive here.
Lastly, it’s believed that as many as two dozen ancient oaks may
still remain at Nores Hill, Shinfield Park.
To close our look at Berkshire, here are four other treescapes,
which are certainly worthy of mention: Cliveden near
Maidenhead with its series of gardens, as well as several miles of
quite lovely woodland and riverside walks; Welford Park with
its fine Georgian house and beech woods; Englefield Park near
Theale with its lovely gardens and woods; and Wellington Country
Park with its herds of deer, nature trails and secluded woodland
walks.
If you know of other ancient trees in Berkshire or if you wish to
suggest a site for inclusion in next month’s article, Focus on
Buckinghamshire, we’d love to hear from you!
Please
email us, providing as much information as possible and
preferably including an Ordnance Survey map reference. We’re also
very keen to build up a library of photographs of ancient trees and
ancient tree sites. Can you help? If you’re willing to share your
treescapes and tree portraits, please
email them
to us, remembering to provide location details for each photo, with
an Ordnance Survey map reference if possible. We’d love to include
them in a future article!
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